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A protected designation with a precise definition, not simply a name for fresh herring.
The requirements
At least sixteen per cent fat, caught in the right season, gibbed and matured in the traditional way. That is set down in European law.
Why sixteen per cent
Before spawning the herring gorges on plankton. That fat makes the flesh soft and sweet, and the effect only appears above sixteen per cent.
Gibbing
Gills and guts out, but the pancreas stays. Its enzymes ripen the fish from within during brining.
When
From around mid June, once the fat content is reached. The exact date varies and is fixed each year.
How to eat it
By the tail, head back, with chopped onion. Or in pieces on a plate, and nobody comments.
Where to look
Herring carts and fish shops from June, and the harbours for the shortest chain.
Where to try it
Places in our directory that serve this