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A former working class district west of the centre, now the densest concentration of brown cafés in the country.
The brown cafés
Narrow, dark, with the bar running the full length. Some have stood on the same spot for over a century, and the interior was never replaced because there was no reason to.
The name
Probably from the French jardin, garden, after the gardens once there. Nothing is certain and at least three other explanations exist.
From poor to expensive
One of Amsterdam’s poorest districts into the 1970s. Renovation made it one of the dearest, and the menus show it.
The hofjes
Hidden courtyards behind unremarkable doors, built as housing for the poor. Several open during the day and the contrast with the busy street is sharp.
The Noordermarkt
Textiles on Monday, a farmers market on Saturday with regional cheese and vegetables. Terraces fill the moment the sun appears.
Where to look
The Prinsengracht and Egelantiersstraat for cafés, the Noordermarkt on Saturdays.
Where to try it
Places in our directory that serve this
Cafe in Amsterdam 164 · Bar in Amsterdam 507 · Restaurant in Amsterdam 1233